Table of contents
At a glance
Rhizome plant
Low light
Slow growth
Hardy leaves
Description
Anubias are a group of popular aquarium plants prized for tough dark green foliage and a creeping rhizome habit. The genus Anubias includes many species that range from tiny rosettes to broadleaf varieties and are ideal for attaching to wood or rock. They tolerate a wide range of water conditions and low light while needing only moderate nutrients. Propagation is simple and maintenance is minimal, making them excellent for beginners and low-tech tanks.
Quick overview
Anubias, Anubias barteri, Anubias nana, Broadleaf anubias
Anubias spp.
Araceae
Rhizome plant
Slow
Foreground to midground
Freshwater
22–28 °C
Leaves ~1–20 cm, rhizome ~0.5–3 cm
Low–medium
Optional
Easy
Ideal use in aquascaping
Anubias are perfect as anchor plants on driftwood and rock where they add structure and longevity to a layout. Their slow growth and sturdy leaves make them reliable focal points or filler plants in shaded areas. They work well in both low-tech and high-tech setups as an accent or background mass depending on species size.
Attach Anubias to hardscape in the foreground for dwarf forms and in the midground or background for larger species; they act as stable architectural elements and contrast points. Use them to add vertical and textural variety where taller stem plants are unsuitable.
Anubias suit nature aquascapes, Iwagumi layouts with hardscape, and biotope tanks that require realistic wood and rock cover. Their form complements minimalist and dense planted styles without needing intense light or CO₂.
Leaves are typically deep green and glossy, offering bold contrast against fine textured plants and substrates. The thick leathery texture gives a planted scape a mature, low maintenance look.
Small Anubias species scale well in nano and small tanks while larger species need mid to large tanks to avoid looking cramped. They are easy to space and can be repeated to create planted clusters in bigger aquariums.
Light and CO₂
Light requirement
Low to medium. Anubias do best in dimmer tanks and will tolerate low light without stretching while higher light increases algae risk.
CO₂ requirement
CO₂ is optional for healthy Anubias but a small CO₂ boost can speed leaf production in brighter setups.
Photoperiod
6–8 hours daily. A regular photoperiod helps prevent algae and maintains steady growth.
Substrate and nutrients
Anubias does not rely on deep substrate because it takes nutrients from the water column and from the rhizome interface. They benefit from occasional root tabs when potted or when the rhizome is placed on nutrient rich substrate nearby. Regular liquid fertilization with trace elements supports healthy dark green leaves.
Substrate preference
Best attached to wood or rock rather than planted with the rhizome buried, and potted versions do well in inert gravel or soil inside a pot. If planted in substrate, keep the rhizome exposed to avoid rot.
Nutrient needs
Moderate macronutrients and consistent micros are enough for slow steady growth and avoid overfeeding which raises algae risk. A combination of weekly liquid fertiliser and occasional root tabs for larger forms works well.
- Use a regular liquid trace fertilizer weekly to supply micronutrients
- Place root tabs near potted Anubias if roots are in substrate
- Avoid overfeeding to minimize algae on the thick leaves
Planting and propagation
Plant Anubias by tying or gluing the rhizome to wood or rock with the root side down; do not bury the rhizome. Propagate by dividing the rhizome with a clean knife so each section has leaves and roots. New shoots will emerge from the cut edges after attachment.
How to plant
- Rinse the plant and trim damaged leaves
- Attach rhizome to wood or rock with thread or glue
- Secure until roots establish then remove ties
Propagation method
Divide the rhizome into sections using a sharp sterilized blade and ensure each section has at least a few leaves and roots; then reattach or pot the pieces. New growth will appear from the remaining nodes on each segment.
- Make clean cuts to reduce stress and rot
- Allow cut surfaces to callus briefly before planting
- Keep newly divided pieces in shaded water until roots take hold
Pruning and maintenance
Remove old, yellowing, or algae covered leaves by cutting at the base to encourage fresh growth and maintain appearance. Wipe or gently brush leaves if algae builds up and adjust light or nutrients if persistent. Check the rhizome periodically to ensure it is not buried or decaying.
Trimming style
Trim by cutting individual leaves at their base without slicing into the rhizome to keep new growth points intact.
Maintenance frequency
Inspect and remove damaged leaves every 2–6 weeks and clean algae as needed depending on light and nutrient levels. Regular light and fertilization control reduces maintenance chores.
What healthy growth looks like
Healthy Anubias produce new dark green leaves from the rhizome and form a low creeping mat with firm texture. Roots that cling to hardscape and steady small leaf production indicate good conditions.
Signs it needs attention
Yellowing or transparent leaves, soft rhizome tissue, or persistent algae signal nutrient imbalance, poor water quality, or excess light. Stunted new leaves may indicate low nutrient availability or CO₂ limitation in bright setups.
Tankmates and compatibility
Anubias are very compatible with peaceful community tanks and do well with invertebrates and small fish that do not nibble or dig. Avoid tankmates that uproot or scrape hardscape where Anubias are attached.
Good with
Small peaceful fish, shrimp, and snails coexist well with Anubias in planted tanks.
Use caution with
Use caution with diggers and large plant eating fish such as cichlids and goldfish which can damage attached plants.
Special notes
Tie plants in place until roots establish to prevent drifting and burying the rhizome will cause rot. Anubias grow slowly so patience is required for large displays.
Pro tips for this plant
Attach to wood with cotton thread then remove the thread after roots form.
Place Anubias in shaded spots to reduce algae on leaves in high light setups.
Cut away any leaf that shows signs of rot immediately to protect the rhizome.
Yellow leaves
Yellowing often indicates nutrient deficiency, excessive light, or older leaf senescence; test water and adjust fertilization or light levels and remove old leaves.
Algae on leaves
Algae grows on the thick leaf surfaces when light is too high or nutrients are unbalanced; reduce photoperiod, lower light intensity, and improve water circulation or add algae grazers.
Rhizome rot
Rhizome rot happens when the rhizome is buried or damaged and water quality is poor; free the rhizome from substrate, trim infected tissue, and improve water conditions.
Typical beginner mistakes
- Burying the rhizome in substrate which leads to rot
- Placing in too bright light causing algae buildup
- Expecting fast growth which leads to overfertilization and algae
Short summary
Anubias are hardy rhizome plants ideal for attaching to wood and rock and suit low-tech aquariums due to slow growth and low light needs. They require minimal care, regular removal of old leaves and algae, and propagation by dividing the rhizome.
Frequently asked questions (FAQs)
Can Anubias grow without CO₂?
Can Anubias grow without CO₂?
Yes, Anubias grow well without CO₂ and are common in low tech tanks though CO₂ can increase leaf production.
How do I attach Anubias to wood?
How do I attach Anubias to wood?
Tie the rhizome to wood with cotton thread or use aquarium-safe glue and wait for roots to anchor before removing ties.
Should I bury the rhizome?
Should I bury the rhizome?
No, do not bury the rhizome as this commonly causes rot and plant decline.
Why are the leaves getting algae?
Why are the leaves getting algae?
Algae on leaves is usually from too much light or excess nutrients; reduce photoperiod and adjust feeding and lighting.
How fast does Anubias grow?
How fast does Anubias grow?
Anubias are slow growers and may produce only a few leaves per month depending on conditions.
Can shrimp damage Anubias?
Can shrimp damage Anubias?
No, shrimp are generally safe and help keep leaf surfaces clean while not harming the plant.
Mette Tulin
Mette Tulin is the creator of Aquascapedia, with more than 15 years of hands-on experience in aquascaping, planted aquariums, and freshwater fish, shrimp, crayfish, and snails. She shares practical insights, curated aquatic life profiles, and inspiration to help others build thriving underwater landscapes.
