At a glance
Peaceful
Schooling
Bottom dweller
Hardy
Description
Corydoras Paleatus (Corydoras paleatus) is a stocky, armored catfish known for its mottled, peppered pattern and friendly behavior. It has a compact body, barbels for foraging, and an active, social temperament that shows best in small groups. This species adapts well to planted aquariums with soft substrate and gentle water flow, making it a favorite for beginner to intermediate aquascapes. Regular water changes and a varied diet keep them healthy and brightly patterned.

Quick overview
Paleatus cory, Peppered cory, Peppered catfish
Peaceful, social, schooling
60 liters (15 gallons) for a group
Ideal aquarium setup
Corydoras paleatus do best in a planted, stable aquarium with shaded areas and open patches of sand for foraging. They like soft to moderately hard water with regular maintenance and gentle filtration that does not create strong surface turbulence. Leaf litter, driftwood and plenty of hiding spots make them feel secure and encourage natural behavior.
A 60–80 liter tank is a good starting point for a small group of 6–8 corydoras, larger if you plan more fish. They are social and need space to forage along the substrate together.
Moderate to low lighting is preferable since bright light can make them shy; floating plants help diffuse light and create comfortable dim zones. In low light they are bolder and more active during the day.
Broad-leaved plants, stem plants and floating plants suit them well because they provide cover and help mimic their natural habitat. Plants also stabilize water parameters and offer shaded foraging areas that reduce stress.
Moderate flow that keeps water oxygenated without strong currents so they can forage easily along the bottom.
Fine sand or very smooth rounded gravel is ideal because it protects their delicate barbels while they root for food.
Use smooth driftwood, flat rocks and leaf litter to create hiding places and grazing surfaces, while leaving open sandy areas for them to swim and search for food. Avoid sharp or rough decor that can damage barbels or fins.

Behavior and temperament
Paleatus cory are social, peaceful fish that form loose schools and constantly sift the substrate for food. They are fairly active during the day but can be shy in very bright tanks or when kept singly. They are sensitive to poor water quality and sudden parameter changes, so stable conditions and regular water changes are important. When comfortable they display playful, communal behavior and will often rest together on leaves or wood.
Diet and feeding
These corydoras are omnivores and natural bottom foragers with small mouths, so they do best on sinking foods and frequent small feedings. Offer a variety of sinking pellets, frozen or live foods and occasional vegetable matter to ensure balanced nutrition and good coloration.
What they eat in nature
Worms, insect larvae, small crustaceans, detritus and plant matter.
What to feed in the aquarium
- Sinking pellets or wafers designed for catfish.
- Frozen bloodworms, daphnia and brine shrimp.
- Live foods like blackworms or tubifex in moderation.
- Blanched vegetables and occasional flake crumbs.
Feeding schedule
Feed small portions once or twice daily, only what they consume within a few minutes.
Special dietary needs
No strict needs, but regular small live or frozen foods improve conditioning, breeding readiness and coloration.
Daily:
Offer a small portion of sinking food each day so all individuals can access it without competition.
Weekly:
Include one or two richer feeds per week such as frozen bloodworms or live blackworms to provide protein and variety.
Always:
Always remove uneaten food and keep feedings modest to protect water quality and barbels.
Tankmate compatibility
They pair well with other peaceful community fish that occupy mid and top levels because they are nonaggressive and small. Avoid large or aggressive species that may harass them or outcompete them for food. Match by temperament and size to keep stress low and group behavior natural.
Yes with caution - adult shrimp are generally safe but tiny shrimp fry may be eaten during feeding; provide plenty of hiding places for shrimp.
Snails are usually compatible and can help with cleanup; corydoras typically ignore healthy adult snails and coexist peacefully.
Small tetras, rasboras and small peaceful gouramis make good companions because they occupy different water levels and are nonaggressive. Livebearers like endlers also work well if they are not too boisterous.
Avoid larger cichlids, aggressive barbs and boisterous bottom dwellers that can nip fins or stress corydoras. Such tankmates may bully or outcompete them for food.
Keep corydoras in groups of at least six to see natural schooling and social behaviors, and larger groups are ideal for confident, active fish.
Breeding
Breeding paleatus cory is achievable for hobbyists who condition their fish with live and frozen foods and simulate rainy season changes with cooler water and water changes. Spawning usually occurs after heavy feeding and a slight drop in temperature, and adults will lay adhesive eggs on plant leaves, glass or hardscapes. Adults do not guard the eggs and may eat some, so breeders often move eggs to a separate tank.
Difficulty
Moderately easy to breed with proper conditioning because the trigger is mainly diet and a water change; success improves with clean water, varied foods and a safe egg surface.
How they breed
They are egg scatterers that perform the typical corydoras 'T-position' and attach sticky eggs to surfaces.
Best setup for breeding
Use a small breeding tank with soft slightly acidic water, subdued light, broad-leaf plants or spawning mops and a sponge filter for gentle filtration. Keep a well-fed group and perform a series of cooler water changes to trigger spawning and move eggs to a separate tank if you want to protect them.
Feeding the babies
Start fry on infusoria or commercially available liquid fry foods for the first few days, then progress to microworms and newly hatched baby brine shrimp. As fry grow, transition to finely crushed flake or powdered foods then small sinking granules.
Pro tips
Use fine sand to protect barbels and encourage natural foraging.
Keep them in groups of six or more to reduce stress and encourage active behavior.
Provide leaf litter and driftwood to simulate natural hiding places and spawning sites.
Barbel rot
Barbel damage or rot usually stems from poor water quality or sharp substrate; improve water conditions, switch to fine sand and perform regular water changes to help recovery.
Stress from bright light
Excessively bright tanks or no shaded areas make corydoras hide and reduce activity; add floating plants or dim the lights and provide cover to calm them.
Poor feeding access
Fast or boisterous tankmates can monopolize food, leaving corydoras malnourished; feed sinking foods, target-feed the group and ensure there are open foraging times.
Typical beginner mistakes
- Keeping them singly or in pairs instead of in a group.
- Using sharp gravel that damages barbels.
- Neglecting regular water changes and stable parameters.
Short summary
Corydoras paleatus is a peaceful, social bottom-dweller ideal for planted community aquariums and aquascapes. They are hardy and fairly easy to care for when kept in groups with fine substrate, varied diet and stable water conditions.
Frequently asked questions (FAQs)
How many Corydoras paleatus should I keep together?
Keep at least six together to encourage schooling and reduce stress; larger groups are even better.
What substrate is best for their barbels?
Fine sand or very smooth rounded gravel is best because it prevents barbel damage and allows natural foraging.
Will they eat shrimp or snails?
They usually ignore adult shrimp and snails but may eat very small shrimp fry, so provide hiding spots for shrimp.
Are they suitable for planted tanks?
Yes, they thrive in planted tanks with shaded areas and leaf litter that mimic their natural habitat.
How do I encourage breeding?
Condition with live or frozen foods and trigger spawning with cooler, clean water changes and plenty of cover for egg attachment.
Do they require special water chemistry?
They are adaptable but prefer stable, slightly acidic to neutral water with moderate hardness and regular maintenance.